Posts Tagged gardening
Good News… And Bad News
Posted by Joshua Bardwell in Homesteading on June 9th, 2010
The good news…

First harvest of green beans, kohlrabi, and squash. Probably the last major harvest of broccoli. That yellow squash must have been hiding from me, because all of its siblings are still pretty small. I was poking around under the plant, just checking things out, and WHAM! there it was right in front of me! Normally, I would have picked it before now! It’s gotten lumpy, but its skin is still soft, so I think it should still be yummy to eat. Eventually, they get hard and that’s when you can use them for seed.
Now, the bad news. My plants are being afflicted by something, and I have no idea what it is, but it’s surprisingly broad-spectrum, and visions of losing large swaths of my garden are running through my head. The symptoms are as follows: yellow spots on leaves turn into dry, brown lesions, that eventually result in the entire leaf turning brown and wilting. The problem seems to have started on the lower leaves of the tomatoes. I went through today and picked off every visibly affected branch, and the pattern that I observed seemed to be that the affected areas were linked by physical contact. That is, if an upper branch of the plant happened to be bent down such that it was touching a lower, affected, leaf, the upper leaf would also be affected. The problem did not seem to go from the bottom of the plant, upwards, as would be the case with under-watering, or over-fertilizing, for example. The really disturbing thing is that, not only were tomatoes affected, but so were a few kohlrabi that were in contact with them. And so were some beans, summer squash, broccoli, and potatoes, that were not even in contact with the tomatoes. As I think about it, I’m starting to wonder if this is what killed all my early peas (and seems to be in the process of killing my 2nd batch of peas now).
It’s possible that this isn’t the same thing for every plant, but you be the judge. I took lots of photos (presented in a Flash gallery, because there are so many of them, apologies to those who don’t or can’t use Flash). If you click on any of the photos, you’ll be taken through to the gallery viewer where you can read the descriptions and browse.
Custom-Mixing 2-stroke Engine Gas/Oil Mix
Posted by Joshua Bardwell in Homesteading on June 2nd, 2010
The chainsaw I bought a few months back was the first 2-stroke engine I’ve ever personally owned. 4-stroke engines, like the one in your car, or, probably, your lawnmower, have a separate oil reservoir and inject fuel and oil into the engine separately, as needed. 2-stroke engines don’t have a separate oil reservoir, but of course, they still need lubrication. What you do is mix the oil into the fuel at a specified ratio and the pour that into the gas tank. The oil lubricates the engine as the fuel/oil mixture burns during normal combustion.
The ratio of fuel to oil is important. Too much oil and the soot from the burning oil will foul the spark plug and the engine will lose power and stop running. This is an easy fix: just take out the spark plug and clean it with a stiff brush and an appropriate cleaner, or even gasoline if you don’t have anything better on hand. Too little oil, and the engine will, in the worst case, overheat and warp the piston, basically permanently destroying it. If you’ve got a chainsaw that’s expensive enough to make replacing the piston worth the price, then you probably don’t need to read anymore!
The chainsaw (or weed-whacker, or whatever) probably comes with a manual that specifies a certain oil-to-fuel ratio, such as 30:1, 40:1, or 50:1. These ratios are commonly expressed as the number of ounces of oil that have to be added to one gallon of gas to get the desired ratio: 4.3 oz, 3.2 oz, and 2.6 oz respectively. When you buy oil, the oil typically comes either in single-dose containers, or it comes in a big container with a measuring spout that is calibrated to the single-dose amount. The idea here is that you measure out a single dose and mix it with a gallon of gas and then away you go!
Herein lies the first confusing thing to people (like me) who are new to 2-stroke engines. If my owner’s manual says I need a 40:1 mixture, but the oil that I bought is pre-measured to give out 2.6 oz shots (50:1 mixture), what do I do? The answer to this one is actually pretty simple: the oil’s number takes precedence. The proper mixture for oil depends entirely on the lubricating properties of the oil itself. So a modern, synthetic oil, can provide adequate lubrication at a 50:1 ratio, whereas if you go back far enough, oils had as low as a 16:1 ratio! Forget what your owner’s manual says and just put the amount of oil in the gas that the oil container says.
Fuel goes “stale” after a couple of months. What, exactly, happens to it is explained different ways by different people, and I have never been curious enough to really search out good answers. Some people say it takes on moisture. Other people say it “gums up”. You can buy fuel stabilizer to mix in with the gas and extend the life of the fuel to maybe six months or more, but I have, twice now, had a chainsaw absolutely die on me when I was 30 minutes’ drive from home, cutting up a tree for firewood, and let me tell you, that’s a waste of time and effort that I don’t need. What was the problem? The fuel was less then a month old, so it should have been fine. I even shook it up really well, to mix the oil back in (it settles out if it sits for a while). That fuel ought to have been fresh, but the minute I mixed up a new batch, the saw came right back to life, so you’ll excuse me if I’m only interested in burning freshly-mixed fuel in my 2-stroke engines.
And that brings us to issue number 2: I don’t burn through a lot of 2-stroke fuel. Each time I take out the saw, I might burn through a tank or three and then put it away for another month or so, especially during the summer, when gardening is more of a priority and cutting firewood less. Getting rid of excess 2-stroke mixture is easy: just pour it into your car’s gas tank. The amount of oil in the mixture is minute, but if you’re really concerned, take the 2-stroke mix to the gas station with you and pour it into your (empty) tank just before filling up. This will ensure the smallest possible ratio of oil to gas, and thoroughly mix the oil into the fuel.
Even though this prevents the fuel from going to waste, the oil still goes to waste, and that’s not ideal. So today, I figured out how to mix up just one tank’s worth of 2-stroke mix at a time. This means less wasted oil and less 2-stroke mix being burned in my car’s tank. Here’s how to do it:
- Determine the capacity of your tool’s tank. I did this by filling the chainsaw’s tank with straight gasoline and then emptying the gas tank into a large metal bowl (large to catch the spillage). I set the bowl on a scale and determined that my chainsaw’s tank holds about 9.25 oz of fuel.
- Determine the appropriate ratio for your oil. This is easy to do because the oil is marked with the right amount to use for 1 gallon of fuel. 3.2 oz per gallon is 40:1. 2.6 oz per gallon is 50:1, and these are the most common ratios seen today. If you don’t know the correct ratio, a gallon is 128 oz. Divide the “one-shot” amount for your oil into 128 and then take 1/ the result. Example: 2.6 / 128 = 0.2. 1/0.2 = 50. 2.6 oz per gallon is a 50:1 ratio.
- Divide the capacity of your tool’s tank by the desired ratio. Example: 9.25 oz capacity with a desired ratio of 50:1. 9.25 / 50 = 0.185. At a 50:1 ratio, a full tank of my chainsaw’s gas would require 0.18 oz of oil.
Having calculated the single-tank amount of oil, the only remaining task is to devise a method for measuring out that much oil. My preferred method is a turkey-baster or other such object. a large syringe, such as is used in food prep might be good too, and more precise, but I happen to own some extra turkey-basters that I used to use to fill kerosene lanterns, so there you go. My turkey baster is pre-marked at 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 3/4 oz, so I was tempted to just eyeball the 0.18 oz of oil, but there I was with a scale just sitting there, so I weighed it out. Scales are your friends, boys and girls, in all sorts of tasks, from the kitchen to the garage. In the future, I will probably mark on the turkey-baster where the 0.18 oz point is to make future measurement easy. With this technique, it’s not much harder to fill the tank, but I never have more than a tank’s worth of extra fuel.
One final note: I’d suggest squirting the oil into your empty gas tank first, and then adding fuel to fill. This will ensure that the oil is mixed thoroughly with the fuel, which might not happen if you put the fuel in first and then the oil.
Garden Update – May 18, 2010
Posted by Joshua Bardwell in Homesteading on May 18th, 2010

The garden has really come in. From left to right: lettuce, broccoli, bok choy, collards, and spinachin bed 1; potatoes in bed 2 north and strawberries in bed 2 south; tomatoes (HUGE!) and root vegetables, including carrots, parsnips, beets, radishes, and kohlrabi in bed 3; corn, peas, beans, squash, watermelon, cantaloupe, cucumbers, onions, and leeks in bed 4.

Tomatillos are starting to form. Tomatoes have blossoms but no fruit yet.

The tomatoes have grown up huge and are threatening to out-grow the 52″ cages I put them in. You can see some parsnips and kohlrabi in the foreground.

Corn, peas, and squash in “three sisters” setup. The peas grow up the corn stalk and the squash leaves act as a natural mulch. Not that I have any trouble with mulch, mind you.

Speaking of peas! The early plants have started to fruit, although we only harvest about an ounce at a time. Snow peas are just about as good as potato chips to me.

OMG potatoes! The vigor of these plants really surprised me, given how most vegetables have to go through a very delicate baby-stage where they keel over at the drop of a hat. Huge sprouts thrust up through the mulch, seemingly all at once. I have a total of 75 row-feet of potatoes, which should produce… well, we’ll see… but I hope it’s lots of spuds.

Finally, the broccoli is just starting to form heads, which is very exciting, except I wish I’d planted more than sixteen broccoli plants, because only about eight of them did very well, and that’s not very much broccoli, if you only get one really good head per plant. Actually, I started eight more plants outdoors in the early spring, but they got totally obliterated by bugs or slugs or birds or something. They’re still alive, but they’re tiny, and not showing much vigor.
It’s been a long time since I lived anywhere there were fireflies, but they’ve started lighting up the night here at The Wallow. Can anybody tell me whether they’re a beneficial insect or not? Unfortunately, there is a movie called Fireflies in the Garden, which makes it impossible to look up any information about fireflies and gardening, because all the hits are about the movie.
Seasonal Eating
Posted by Joshua Bardwell in Food, Homesteading on May 10th, 2010
If it were up to me, I’d have a garden that produced more strawberries, peaches, pears, oranges, and other delicious, sweet fruits, than anything else. But of course that’s not the way nature works. Citrus won’t grow at all where I live, and if I want to eat anything fresh in the early spring and late fall, I have to expand my selection. Lettuce and other greens are a great choice for early-spring eating, and winter squash are an example of late-fall plants. Even if spinach, cabbage, and collards aren”t my favorite vegetables (and, actually, I like collards quite a lot), I try to find ways to eat them because that’s clearly what an animal living in my neck of the woods should be eating at this time of year, if that’s what’ll grow.
Issa hasn’t been receptive to this argument. She says, “If we’re going to eat exclusively from the garden, then I’ll eat whatever comes from it, and like it, but as long as we’re eating from the grocery store, I don’t want to eat collards.” The problem has been that there’s no way our garden can produce all of the produce we want to eat. So this weekend, we made a compromise: we won’t eat exclusively from the garden, and we won’t even go so far as to eat exclusively local, but we will eat only in-season.
I’ll boil her up a bowl of collards and see if she means it.
Hedging Your Bets
Posted by Joshua Bardwell in Food, Homesteading on April 29th, 2010
One of the things I’ve learned about gardening is that it’s a numbers game. If I intend to plant six tomatoes, I’ll start ten pots with three seeds each. Thirty seeds to start six tomatoes might sound like a lot, but there’s potential losses at each stage of the game. Some of the seeds won’t germinate. Some of the seedlings will be small or weak. Some of the plants will stall out during hardening off. Some of them might die after transplanting. Some of them might fall prey to some calamity after they’re in the garden.
Gardening is done on a time table. In my zone, zone 7, the growing season is from about April to about October, or about 6-7 months. It takes about 100 days from seed to harvest for a “typical” tomato (whatever that means). If I was to start just as many seeds or plants as I needed, by the time I found out that I wasn’t going to have enough, I would be irredeemably behind the curve.
Because gardening is a long-term game, it pays to hedge your bets. Should I plant lettuce in the north bed, where it’s more shaded, or in the south bed, where it gets more sun? Will my squash and peas do better in a traditional “three sisters” configuration with corn, or grown separately? The answer I usually choose is, “both, and pay attention to the results.” Agriculture is inherently scientific. Before we had chemical tests to tell us things about our soil (and let’s face it, some of us still don’t), farmers and gardeners used the most quantitative measures that they had: the health and productivity of their plants. As I work this site, I will develop a “way I do things” based on what has worked in the past. If somebody was to ask me, “why do you plant corn in the south but beans in the north,” I’ll say, “because when I plant it the other way, I get less corn and beans!”
The inherent bounty of plants makes the “hedging” approach feasible. Today, I took some cuttings from my sage plant to try to start some new plants. I know that rooting hormone increases the probability that the cuttings will take root, but instead, I just took six times as many cuttings as I thought I’d need. If even one of them “takes,” then I’ll have twice as many sage plants as I started out with, and either way, my sage plant will hardly notice the lack of those six stems.
Another example: right now, I have nine tiny tomato plants in a cold frame. I started a total of about twelve tomatoes (of various types) back in March or so. I transplanted them outside in early April when it was getting warm, but there was still the chance of a frost. In case I lost the tomatoes to frost, I started some new ones in pots. That way, if I lost my first batch of tomatoes to frost, I would still be able to get a decent crop of tomatoes from the second batch. Of course, the first batch was fine, and the second batch will be coming along shortly, and I may end up with a total of 25 tomato plants. These are a good kind of problem to have.














