The chainsaw I bought a few months back was the first 2-stroke engine I’ve ever personally owned. 4-stroke engines, like the one in your car, or, probably, your lawnmower, have a separate oil reservoir and inject fuel and oil into the engine separately, as needed. 2-stroke engines don’t have a separate oil reservoir, but of course, they still need lubrication. What you do is mix the oil into the fuel at a specified ratio and the pour that into the gas tank. The oil lubricates the engine as the fuel/oil mixture burns during normal combustion.
The ratio of fuel to oil is important. Too much oil and the soot from the burning oil will foul the spark plug and the engine will lose power and stop running. This is an easy fix: just take out the spark plug and clean it with a stiff brush and an appropriate cleaner, or even gasoline if you don’t have anything better on hand. Too little oil, and the engine will, in the worst case, overheat and warp the piston, basically permanently destroying it. If you’ve got a chainsaw that’s expensive enough to make replacing the piston worth the price, then you probably don’t need to read anymore!
The chainsaw (or weed-whacker, or whatever) probably comes with a manual that specifies a certain oil-to-fuel ratio, such as 30:1, 40:1, or 50:1. These ratios are commonly expressed as the number of ounces of oil that have to be added to one gallon of gas to get the desired ratio: 4.3 oz, 3.2 oz, and 2.6 oz respectively. When you buy oil, the oil typically comes either in single-dose containers, or it comes in a big container with a measuring spout that is calibrated to the single-dose amount. The idea here is that you measure out a single dose and mix it with a gallon of gas and then away you go!
Herein lies the first confusing thing to people (like me) who are new to 2-stroke engines. If my owner’s manual says I need a 40:1 mixture, but the oil that I bought is pre-measured to give out 2.6 oz shots (50:1 mixture), what do I do? The answer to this one is actually pretty simple: the oil’s number takes precedence. The proper mixture for oil depends entirely on the lubricating properties of the oil itself. So a modern, synthetic oil, can provide adequate lubrication at a 50:1 ratio, whereas if you go back far enough, oils had as low as a 16:1 ratio! Forget what your owner’s manual says and just put the amount of oil in the gas that the oil container says.
Fuel goes “stale” after a couple of months. What, exactly, happens to it is explained different ways by different people, and I have never been curious enough to really search out good answers. Some people say it takes on moisture. Other people say it “gums up”. You can buy fuel stabilizer to mix in with the gas and extend the life of the fuel to maybe six months or more, but I have, twice now, had a chainsaw absolutely die on me when I was 30 minutes’ drive from home, cutting up a tree for firewood, and let me tell you, that’s a waste of time and effort that I don’t need. What was the problem? The fuel was less then a month old, so it should have been fine. I even shook it up really well, to mix the oil back in (it settles out if it sits for a while). That fuel ought to have been fresh, but the minute I mixed up a new batch, the saw came right back to life, so you’ll excuse me if I’m only interested in burning freshly-mixed fuel in my 2-stroke engines.
And that brings us to issue number 2: I don’t burn through a lot of 2-stroke fuel. Each time I take out the saw, I might burn through a tank or three and then put it away for another month or so, especially during the summer, when gardening is more of a priority and cutting firewood less. Getting rid of excess 2-stroke mixture is easy: just pour it into your car’s gas tank. The amount of oil in the mixture is minute, but if you’re really concerned, take the 2-stroke mix to the gas station with you and pour it into your (empty) tank just before filling up. This will ensure the smallest possible ratio of oil to gas, and thoroughly mix the oil into the fuel.
Even though this prevents the fuel from going to waste, the oil still goes to waste, and that’s not ideal. So today, I figured out how to mix up just one tank’s worth of 2-stroke mix at a time. This means less wasted oil and less 2-stroke mix being burned in my car’s tank. Here’s how to do it:
- Determine the capacity of your tool’s tank. I did this by filling the chainsaw’s tank with straight gasoline and then emptying the gas tank into a large metal bowl (large to catch the spillage). I set the bowl on a scale and determined that my chainsaw’s tank holds about 9.25 oz of fuel.
- Determine the appropriate ratio for your oil. This is easy to do because the oil is marked with the right amount to use for 1 gallon of fuel. 3.2 oz per gallon is 40:1. 2.6 oz per gallon is 50:1, and these are the most common ratios seen today. If you don’t know the correct ratio, a gallon is 128 oz. Divide the “one-shot” amount for your oil into 128 and then take 1/ the result. Example: 2.6 / 128 = 0.2. 1/0.2 = 50. 2.6 oz per gallon is a 50:1 ratio.
- Divide the capacity of your tool’s tank by the desired ratio. Example: 9.25 oz capacity with a desired ratio of 50:1. 9.25 / 50 = 0.185. At a 50:1 ratio, a full tank of my chainsaw’s gas would require 0.18 oz of oil.
Having calculated the single-tank amount of oil, the only remaining task is to devise a method for measuring out that much oil. My preferred method is a turkey-baster or other such object. a large syringe, such as is used in food prep might be good too, and more precise, but I happen to own some extra turkey-basters that I used to use to fill kerosene lanterns, so there you go. My turkey baster is pre-marked at 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 3/4 oz, so I was tempted to just eyeball the 0.18 oz of oil, but there I was with a scale just sitting there, so I weighed it out. Scales are your friends, boys and girls, in all sorts of tasks, from the kitchen to the garage. In the future, I will probably mark on the turkey-baster where the 0.18 oz point is to make future measurement easy. With this technique, it’s not much harder to fill the tank, but I never have more than a tank’s worth of extra fuel.
One final note: I’d suggest squirting the oil into your empty gas tank first, and then adding fuel to fill. This will ensure that the oil is mixed thoroughly with the fuel, which might not happen if you put the fuel in first and then the oil.

 
#1 by Hugh at June 4th, 2010
The oil-in-first is the same way I prefer mixing creamer into my coffee. It makes sense that it would be useful in this context, too. I only comment because it struck me that even though I’ve used this concept, I hadn’t generalized it for general mixing purposes.
The other thought I had was that you have a binary liquid that you need mixed… which sounds a little like epoxy, but the lower viscosity would make this a bit difficult.. Of course, the next thought I had was “well, you could use inkjet technology to deposit exactly the proportions you need!”… which is WAAAAY overengineering for the problem.
#2 by Joshua Bardwell at June 4th, 2010
@Hugh: The “inkjet technology” line mad me think… you’ve just invented fuel injection!
Regarding “oil-in-first,” my motivation was specifically because of the different viscosities of the liquids and, of course, because of the high price of failure (blown engine). The first time I did this experiment, I squirted the oil into the bowl with the fuel and observed how it mixed… not well. Eventually, cream will disperse itself through coffee, but oil will do the exact opposite in fuel. That being said, I wonder how much of a big deal it really is. After all, the saw sits for a week or so at a time without being used. Surely the oil separates out. Does the vibration of the saw shake it back into mixture? Or does it really even matter?
#3 by Hugh at June 7th, 2010
Ha! I’ve never been an engine guy, so I guess I never thought about it that way! Now I just need to reinvent the catalytic converter, the telephone, bread….
The viscosity question is a good one. I think the only instance where I’ve done any mixing with oil is in cooking, and yeah, you have to shake up a vinaigrette every time you come back to it, I’d imagine the motion of the saw handles the agitation while it’s going, but do you think starting would benefit from some kind of stirring/agitation, or is it not that crucial to short-term operation?
#4 by Joshua Bardwell at June 7th, 2010
@Hugh: I really have no idea, honestly. I try not to leave fuel in the chainsaw’s tank for too long if I can avoid it, because it tends not to run well if I do that. In theory, you can leave it for a month or two, but that hasn’t been my experience. YMMV.
#5 by bruce at June 28th, 2010
will a 2 cycle engine lock up uf it gets too much oil int the fuel mixture and not turn at all. I think i got too much in mine and since oil does not compress like fuel in think it has to much oil in the cylinder to let it turn over when i pull the starter rope. Can i flush our the cylinder with some pure gasoline and put new fuel and oil mixture in and get it to run properly. This chain saw belonged to my father and as he got older (82) he made mistakes and i did not check the mixture before putting it in the chainsaw. Can you help me with this problem?
#6 by Joshua Bardwell at June 29th, 2010
Engines can get vapor lock and not be able to turn over. I don’t know if that’s caused by too much oil. Too much oil would foul the spark plug for sure though, but that would not cause the engine not to turn over. If the engine is locked, I would take out the spark plug to relieve the pressure. You can then check the plug to see if it’s fouled or not, and clean it if necessary.
#7 by Helen Ng at June 30th, 2010
Hi,
I have a question for you guy.
What kind of oil do i use to mix with gasoline ?
Can i use oil 5w10 or 10w30 or 10w40 etc…
to mix with gasoline ?
Thank You
#8 by Joshua Bardwell at June 30th, 2010
Helen,
My understanding is that it has to be 2-stroke oil specifically. The oil types you’re listing are for 4-stroke engines. 2-stroke oil can be found in the lawn and garden section of most any hardware store.
#9 by Greg D'Arcy at November 6th, 2010
I would be careful not following the recommended oil:gas mixture from the manual. Even today you can buy engines with different mixtures when they all use today’s lubricants. I have used 2 stroke engines for years and always use the recommended mix. I have never had one seize up on me. I have never seen the above recommendation given by a manufacturer. Also be careful mixing the single shot mixtures as small measurement errors on this scale will have a significant impact on the actual oil:gas mixture you are giving the engine. I use the premeasured oil containers and add one gallon as metered out at the pump.
Also my understanding is that gas looses about 1 octane rating per week. So 87 octane gas can turn into 50 octane gas after 37 weeks. So with these mixes that will sit for several months I start with high octane gas (since I’m only buying a gallon or 2) and then use the oil mixtures that contain the fuel stabilizer.
Just my opinions from what I have experienced and read.
#10 by Joshua Bardwell at November 7th, 2010
Greg,
Being careful is a good idea. I’ve been mixing at the oil’s ratio of 50:1 instead of the 30:1 it calls for in my manual, and I also haven’t had any problems, so to each his own.
Thanks for the info about losing octane over time.
#11 by Greg D'Arcy at November 8th, 2010
Not sure who wrote the information above, but I would not follow the advice of some that says:
“Forget what your owner’s manual says and just put the amount of oil in the gas that the oil container says.”
and also
… I have, twice now, had a chainsaw absolutely die on me …
trying to protect people from bad advice that may cause them to damage their equipment. So what I meant by “be careful” was really “DONT LISTEN TO THIS ADVICE!”
Manufactures know more about what they make then anyone else, not following the manuals instructions can be foolish.
#12 by Joshua Bardwell at November 8th, 2010
Greg,
I didn’t come up with the “do what the oil container says” technique on my own. I was confused by the different ratios and did a lot of research before concluding that was the method. I’m just passing along what I learned. There are lots of people out there who swear by the “just do what the oil says” method.
To be clear, the “dead” chainsaw was not in any way damaged; the fuel mixture was just not fresh. Like I wrote, as soon as I mixed a new batch, it fired right back up again. Now that I make sure to use fresh fuel (or use a fuel stabilizer), I have no problems at all, mixing at 50:1 just like the oil says.
Thanks for your interest in this thread.
#13 by Joshua Bardwell at November 9th, 2010
Greg,
Prompted by your comments, I’ve been reading through some chainsaw’s user manual. It looks to me like the manufacturer always recommends a given ratio, such as 40:1 or 50:1, but they also always say, “we recommend only using Stihl (or whoever) brand 2-stroke oil,” or something like that. So if I was to follow manufacturer’s instructions, I would only buy the manufacturer’s oil, which is clearly designed to run at the specified ratio, and that would be that.
… but of course the manufacturer is going to tell me to only buy their oil, aren’t they? It’s just CYA. And the reality is that quality, 3rd-party, name-brand oils are just as good if not better than the manufacturer’s oil.
So what should a person do? Because when I go into the hardware store and buy oil for my saw, I don’t see that in brand X you can buy 16:1, 32:1, 40:1, 50:1… no, all I see is that they’ve got brand X, which happens to be 50:1, or brand Y, which happens to be 40:1, and so forth. If it’s so important to match the ratio to the saw, why don’t the 3rd party oil manufacturers offer their oil in various common ratios, instead of in just one? If you think about it, they’re eliminating huge chunks of their market.
Just so you know I’m not pulling this out of my butt, here is a link to Expert Village where the “expert” agrees with my conclusion:
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Small-Engines-Lawn-1746/stroke-oil-chainsaw.htm
He’s answering a question from a person who has a chainsaw but doesn’t have the manual and needs to know the appropriate mixture.
This thread on tractorbynet.com has several posters who also agree with me:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chainsaws/4286-chainsaw-oil-2-cycle-2.html
For example, post #28 is a guy who says he runs Amsoil 100:1 in all his 2-stroke engines for years, no problems.
If you look at post #18, that guy agrees with you, but you’ll note that his mistake was running outboard oil in his chainsaw. As you probably know, that’s intended for a water-cooled engine and never was going to work right no matter the ratio.
I’m always learning, however, and if you can provide me with sources, I’ll be happy to check them out. But “sources” needs to be something a little more definitive than a manufacturer covering its’ butt by saying, “only use our brand of oil in our saw.”
#14 by David at November 11th, 2010
I’d like to point out another mistake to this article…
I quote:
“Determine the capacity of your tool’s tank. I did this by filling the chainsaw’s tank with straight gasoline and then emptying the gas tank into a large metal bowl (large to catch the spillage). I set the bowl on a scale and determined that my chainsaw’s tank holds about 9.25 oz of fuel.”
According to this he *weighed* the fuel to determine how many ounces it is. Problem here is there are two types of ounce measurements: weight & volume. A dry ounce like he measured is a measure of weight, a fluid oz is a measure of volume. When mixing 2-cycle oil you use fluid OZ, not dry OZ. The two are not the same.
So me measured 9.25 DRY OUNCES. This means it weighs 9.25 OZ, it does not take up 9.25 OZ of space.
You need to know the fluid volume, not the fluid weight.
You can convert from dry ounces to fluid ounces; to do this you have to know how much 1 gallon of gas weighs. The problem with that is gas changes weight depending on the temperature it’s stored at. 1 gallon of gas will weight more at 50 degrees than it does at 70 degrees. So really you’d have to weigh your own gallon of gas at whatever temperature you have it stored.
So to save yourself a bunch of math; just use a measuring cup that measures FLUID OUNCES.
#15 by Joshua Bardwell at November 11th, 2010
David,
You’re basically right that measuring by volume would be a better choice, and I have since updated my method to measure by volume, not weight.
As for gasoline changing weight based on temperature, I’m not sure what you mean. The only thing I can think of that makes sense to me is that the gasoline changes density with temperature, like all fluids, so a fixed volume (say, 1 gallon) weighs slightly less if it is hot vs. cold, because it is less dense and so there is less matter in the same volume. But as far as I can tell, the weight of gasoline changes by only a very small amount relative to temperature, so I’m not sure whether it would make a difference. And anyway, if it changed density such that it weighed less or more, wouldn’t that also screw up your ratio if you were measuring by volume, since there would be less actual gasoline present?
As I understand it, the goal is to achieve a given ratio of oil to gas. From that perspective, it seems like it would be more accurate to just measure by weight, thereby assuring that you have a fixed amount of gasoline, regardless of volume.
But of course, all of this is really navel-gazing, because the formulation must have enough variability to absorb some inaccuracy. When you or me or your average Joe fills up a gas can to the gallon line, does he have exactly 1 gallon, or is he a little high or a little low? If the gas is hot, does the gallon weigh a little less, or if it’s cold, does it weigh a little more? At the end of the day, you pour the shot of oil in and away you go. So if I’m off by 5% because I measured weight instead of volume, well, I wonder if I still end up more consistent in the long run, because I’m using a more precise method than just eyeballing the top of the gas can.
What do you think?
#16 by David at November 11th, 2010
Joshua,
yes, and yes. The density of gasoline does change with temperature, actually it’s weight by volume can fluctuate quite a bit depending on the temperature. However in a sealed container it’s weight would not change; just the density.
And yes, I don’t think it would make much of a difference. Really a moot point; I shouldn’t have mentioned it.
The problem I had with your article was you were mixing up fluid OZ and weight OZ measurements together. Calling a dry weight measurement “volume”. Which it isn’t. In the last section you referenced your gas *volume* as 9.25oz; but it’s really 9.25oz in weight. 1oz of weight is not equal to 1 fluid oz of volume. After reading your well articulated responses; I know you know this. So please don’t take offense.
But yes, if you weighed your gas like you did, then figured out how much in weight you needed for oil it would be very accurate.
A 40:1 ratio is 1/40th of whatever your working with. In this case 9.25oz in weight so 9.25/40 = .23 ounces (might as well round to 1/4 oz .25). So weighing out .25 of an ounce of oil would do the trick like you found.
Now back to why someone would want to do this…
I always put fuel stabilizer in my my 1/2 gallon 2-cycle can. Gas lasts all year without issue… At one point some 2-cycle oils came with stabilizers in them.
And yes, I do agree going by weight will be an accurate method. As long as the initial weight measurement of the full tanks contents is accurate.
A cleaner/healthier method might be to try the owners manual and find the gas tank size specifications and a cheap medical syringe from the drug store to measure the 2-cycle oil. I think it would be a bit less messy and you wouldn’t have to play with an open container of gas and deal with the fumes.
Hope your equipment lasts a long time. Really I find some of the oil ratio’s pretty amusing. And peoples experience and opinions fascinating.
Like my snow thrower’; on the cap it says 32:1; stamped on the engine it says 50:1… lol. I’m 100% sure the engine manufacturer knows what their engine can handle.
And for my 2 cents (personal opinion) into the oil world AMS OIL is the end all be all for oil.
#17 by Joshua Bardwell at November 11th, 2010
David,
You know, the funny thing is that I cook all the time, and I’m intimately familiar with the difference between liquid and dry measure. In the kitchen, I’m familiar enough that I go back and forth without thinking about it… in the kitchen, most things can be measured one-to-one without causing problems. That’s really funny.
I like the idea of the syringe, though. It’d work much better than a turkey baster.